With a broader schedule and strengthened support structures, LFW AW26 reflects a capital reinforcing its commercial and cultural relevance.
London Fashion Week (LFW) AW26 came to a close on Monday evening with a clear sense of reinforcement. The February edition featured more than 90 designers and brands on the official British Fashion Council (BFC) schedule, including 41 runway shows and 20 presentations staged over five days.
Taking place from February 19 to 23, LFW participation was up 11 percent year-on-year, prompting organisers to add an extra Thursday afternoon to accommodate what they termed a “bumper calendar” — a move aligned with the BFC’s push to strengthen London’s scale and international standing. The expansion follows the BFC’s decision to waive participation fees, lowering barriers to entry and welcoming back both emerging and established names through a deliberately curated schedule.
LFW AW26: Opening strong with a nod to heritage and a forward-looking vision
The AW26 season of LFW opened with a show, and a tribute to the late Paul Costelloe, one of the British calendar’s most enduring presences, whose passing in late 2025 marked the end of an era. His son, William Costelloe, presented the brand’s first collection under his creative direction, a collection that successfully balances Paul Costelloe’s historic tailoring roots with contemporary sensibilities.
“This [season] was emotional, but also an exciting look towards the future,” said William Costelloe in an interview with FashionUnited. “Tailoring is our goal, that’s our DNA, our heritage, and we feel we create exciting, beautiful silhouettes that all women can wear and feel proud in. It’s really keeping within my father’s legacy, but also pushing it further, by adding my own little twist.”
The opening show was further underscored by the front-row presence of King Charles III, who also attended British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker’s show on the first day, an uncommon but symbolically potent juxtaposition of heritage, royal backing, and cultural relevance. The interplay between legacy and emerging visions further set the tone for LFW AW26, a week that unfolded around intersecting narratives of tradition, innovation, and strategic positioning. A balance that became more visible in the renewed presence of several well-known names showing on the official LFW schedule.
Reprinted from Fashion United.